KAISERSLAUTERN, Germany — I know, I know. This is hopelessly tribal.
Unless you count the day I spent three weeks ago at Ramstein, I’ve never been to Germany. Now I’m at the Barbarossahof hotel, an elegant 150-year old inn about 20 minutes outside the base, a short drive on the Autobahn — all it’s cracked up to be, by the way — through calming verdant hills. The tiny towns along the way are small cottages with burnt-orange rooftops, looking like gingerbread houses, plopped along the landscape out of someone’s imagined Teutonic heritage. Kaiserslautern itself has a nice high street that allows modern architecture to peek in without disrupting the history of the town, exactly as enlightened urban planners would like. It’s beautiful.
So naturally I thought about six million Jews being persecuted, rounded up and exterminated in places like this. As we drove to the hotel, I noticed a set of old train tracks along the side of the road and felt ill, thinking about all my relatives and their friends who might have traveled on those tracks to their doom. There’s a lot of elderly people in this hotel — where the staff has been lovely to me — and in a bout of ethnic paranoia, I don’t like being around them, even as I just smiled at a kindly old man as he passed me by in the lobby. All the gingerbread houses I saw made me flash on the word Judenrein.
This is irrational of me. I am not reasoning sensibly. But, as I say, I’ve never been here before. Maybe this is a jolt or a shudder that Jewish travelers need to feel the first time they visit, to orient us in the past and to prepare ourselves for a more peaceful present. I didn’t come here as any sort of political act. I’m passing through to get home from covering a war. But I feel like an older Germany has found me, somehow, and not in a way I ever want to be found.
I will, however, enjoy the beer.



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My late husband and his sister, Jews from Dusseldorf, left Germany with their families after Krystallnacht when he was 13 and she was 15. He never went back, but she went back when she was in her 60s and said she felt completely at home again. She took me & my son twice twice & showed us the places they grew up, the properties various family members owned, the other towns where relatives lived, and we met the one remaining relative who she knows lives in Germany.
I used to sit on the trains as my brother and I rode the second-class rails during the seventies, wondering about the prosperous people our parents’ age and (apparent) class — what did YOU do during the war while my pops was fighting the Japanese Emperor’s troops in the Pacific? I couldn’t help it, it crossed my mind regularly.
And I’m as far from tribal as you’re likely to find.
It’s an American thing, I think — we are told so often that it can’t happen here that there’s a very natural curiosity about the place it did happen.
But it has happened here, Teddy, just not at the same scale in recent memory, or to people that a majority of Americans identify with readily.
The number of Native Americans who’ve lost their lives on their own soil over the last 300+ years simply because they were not white is not lost on their nations.
The loss of a sovereign nation, much of their culture and and their people isn’t lost upon the Hawaiians.
Nor is it lost upon the Asians who came here looking for a better life who were denied naturalization or the right move freely (ex. Chinese Exclusion Act), in some states denied the right to own property, who often worked and died in near-slavery and yet were blamed for underemployment of whites, and in WWII were interned in spite of being Americans.
It just hasn’t happened to a substantive number of Americans who appear to be in the majority white group. And if one has a lot of money, the chances of it happening grow much smaller.
I’m close to Nurenberg, and there’s a museum which discusses the rise of the Nazi party, as well as the buildings that were built in the area during that time period.
While many of the buildings you’ve seen in the old black-and-white reels were demolished, some still survive. (One serves as a soccer stadium today) One building, the Zeppelin Field, is completely abandoned and fenced off. Driving by it, I think the Germans go out of their way to avoid it. To them, I suspect, the place is haunted.
If I weren’t in a training exercise, I’d chance a visit to Kaiserslautern. You need to at least rent a BMW for the day and hit the autobahn, then walk (don’t drive) to the nearest tavern/restaurant for a Weizen (wheat) beer. I prefer the dunkels weizen (dark wheat), but the lighter wheat beer is good, too.
Total agreement: Rent a car (I think you can make do with a turbo-diesel VW, frankly, and hit the roads for an eye-opening combination of order and aristocracy on wheels. (No snark intended, driving on the autobahn is memorable for the opportunities to pass and be passed, just don’t get in the way.)
If you find Germany imposing, try Vienna.
Spencer … whatever you do, don’t mention the War !
Looking forward to hearing all your stories.
First, it’s great to see that you are back.
I had a somewhat similar experience my one visit to Germany. It was to Munich, where I decamped after a month in Asia. It didn’t take me long to remember that Hitler came to Munich as a bum and then he left Munich as…Hitler. I was shaken. However, my visit to Dachau was unnerving in the extreme.
The last thing to say is this. I believe that Germany is now the least anti Semitic country in Europe. And, thank goodness they haven’t taken to the creepy philo Semitism you can see in places in the East.
Dude,
you just came out of a war zone!
Your just sensitive.
Oh, and K-town is more winish.
You gotta go to Bavaria for the brau.
Welcome back,
C
When you get home, try watching the film ‘Reunion’ with screenplay by H Pinter and sparkling performances from Samuel West and Jason Robards….